27 Plaza de Bib-Rambla
CHURROS Y CHOCOLATE
Churros piped in a huge spiral form, fried and then cut into smaller pieces and served with a cup of scalding liquid chocolate for dipping.
PA AMB TOMÀQUET
A simple dish, consisting of fresh bread, rubbed with tomato, then seasoned generously with salt and olive oil.
SMALL WONDERS OF THE MORNING
Churros with chocolate - one of the best, most unhealthy breakfasts I have ever eaten.
Watching people hang their washing to dry on the balcony, or on the windowsill. Chuckling with Angela over stories of lost laundry and knickers falling on passers-by below.
Dog walkers are out in abundance, as are coffee drinkers. But only at an acceptable hour such as 10:oo am, because of course they have been partying.
A leisurely stroll past the Cathedral, under yawning orange trees, branches drooping with fruit.
ON THE MENU
A thick, gazpacho-like soup made with tomatoes and bread, and a huge amount of olive oil. Even better than a tomato salmorejo is one made with ripe oranges.
- artesenia monastica -
A selection of traditional and artisanal biscuits and small cakes made by the nuns in the closed convent of San Bernardo, on Calle Gloria.
SMALL WONDERS OF THE AFTERNOON
The pleasure of taking an hour to eat lunch, and then staying at the table to chat with friends afterwards.
The charming practice of buying sweets at a nunnery - where one must place an order to the unseen nun behind the small rotating barrel... wait a few moments and the barrel turns, revealing the sweets, before it is turned one more time to collect the money. Such a system relies on trust.
Partaking in siesta after lunch - that magical time in Granada when the day becomes hot, and the streets empty of all but the tourists, who wander around wondering where everyone has gone.
SMALL WONDERS OF THE EVENING
Waking from a siesta, to undertake a thorough exploration of the Muslim quarter.
Climbing the Cuesta de las Cabras - the Slope of the Goats.
Watching a solitary nun sing in prayer at a tiny chapel on the hill. The nuns of this chapel have kept an ongoing and unbroken roster of prayers for many years, day and night.
Undertaking further explorations in the local cemeteries, where the dead rest in large buildings adorned with plaques and flowers.
Watching the semi-organised mayhem ensue at the green grocer, where shoppers take tickets and wait for their number to be called to select from the mountains of beautiful pineapples, strawberries, and green beans.
Being introduced to the small dog that lives in the window of the furniture store beside my uncle's apartment.
Being told to 'stand here and keep this parking spot', while my uncle fetches the car to move it closer. Then being told to move by various Spanish people who are also looking for a closer spot.
Being so lucky as to witness an impromptu flamenco session by the locals, with a guitar accompaniment by a gentlemen whose cigarette never left his mouth.
ON THE MENU
Many, many many cervezas. Especially popular is the ubiquitous Alhambra brand of beer. And with each beer is served a new form of tapas - small finger foods.
A blood sausage, also filled with rice and onions, fried to a crisp finish then sliced into rounds. Often served with bread.
A tiny round pastry, rolled into a cylinder, cemented together with syrup and topped with toasted cream. An old favourite of Queen Isabella.
And not just any jamón, but one that has been cured in the traditional way, and then stored on the roof of the bar with a small cup below to catch the drips of fat.
PIMIENTOS DE PADRÓN
Fried green chili peppers, from Galicia, in Northwestern Spain. A bit of a risky business as only one in five will turn out to be spicy.
A spanish chocolate drink, which will be served in a very formal manner to your table in packet form, with a glass of hot milk. You are expected to stir in the drink yourself.